Grow Your Own Vegetables In A Raised Garden Bed


Are you looking to start your own backyard vegetable garden? Need to build a raised bed from scratch or already have one? You will have three important factors to account to consider before you start growing. They are location of the bed, soil type\mix, and which plants to grow together (companion plants). Trial and error is a good way to learn, but with available resources on the web will help cut the learning curve.


The first step for me was identifying a location in my yard that where sunlight would be available at least 8 hours a day. Once I had the bed placed in a good location I went off to my local Lowe’s store to begin shopping for the materials and tools I would need for the project. The materials you will need may very according to your project needs. For the purpose of this post I have created a list of the items I used to fill the 8×4 raised bed I built.

Note: It is a good idea to use a Soil Calculator before purchasing your soil so you don’t under or over estimate your needs.



Once you have selected the location of your raised bed you will need to prep the area. Using plastic spikes tie rope around the area you will dig. Begin by edging out the area of grass you will remove. Then proceed to uproot the grass using a spade shovel.

Tip: An alternative to removing the grass is laying down cardboard over. Cardboard/newspaper will smother the grass and weeds and will prevent growth into the soil.


Next flip the raised bed over and drape the landscape fabric over it. Using a staple gun, staple the fabric down. Be sure to stretch the cloth for a tight fit. Once the bed is fully covered, use a scissor to cut off the excess fabric.


Next proceed to place the bed in the desired area. If your bed post extend a few inches down use a shovel to dig holes where the post will go. Once in place even out the soil around the bed and proceed to neatly place the 12″x12″ decorative paver stones.


The next step is optional, but recommended if you are not using cedar (naturally bacterial and fungal resistant, decays much slower).  Since I use white wood I lined the inside of raised bed with plastic sheeting. Simply unroll from the packaging and without unfolding begin stapling across the top. Make sure to start from the very bottom of the bed for best coverage. This will also prevent dirty water from seeping through the cracks.


Time for your soil mixture. Soil mixture can vary depending on your plants watering needs. Depending on the mix you will have either have soggy soil or very dry soil. My personal preference in mix comes in thirds. For this mix I used 1/3 garden soil, 1/3 compost/manure and a 1/3 of compost. This mix adds good volume and water retention while allowing your plants roots to aerate. I’ve had good success in the past growing vegetables using this ratio so I stick to what works.


Once your soil has been mixed thoroughly water it down several times to allow settling before planting. Plant selection is a broad topic with many considerations. Check online resources for companion planting to find out what plants fair the best with. There are many available guides such as this one from Heirloom-Organics.


This bed will be the home of mostly tomates, peppers and herbs. I also have peas growing off on a trellis next to the bed. So far I have the following growing:

Red Bell Pepper
Green Bell Pepper
Cayenne Pepper
Banana Pepper
Sweet Mint

Tip: Use Marigolds in your vegetable garden to naturally repel bean beetles, squash bugs, thrips, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies.


I hope you enjoyed the walkthrough of the newly installed raised bed vegetable garden. Feel free to leave questions as well as share your gardening tips via the comments.



Disclosure: Products within this post were provided to The Outdoor Boys to help facilitate this post. All opinions and comments stated are my own. All photos posted are taken by and property of The Outdoor Boys.

DIY Raised Garden Bed – Step By Step Tutorial

DIY-Raised-Garden-Bed_TheOutdoorBoysAre you looking to build a raised bed to grow your own food this summer? You’ve come to the right place! Since becoming a homeowner five years ago I became passionate about creating things from scratch. When I’m not outdoors fishing or camping I spend my weekends working on different projects around the yard. DIY has since become “my thing”.

My latest DIY project is an 8’x4′ raised garden bed that I plan to grow some delicious vegetables in. Several years back I created a smaller 4’x4′ raised bed in my previous home. Now with a larger back yard it made plenty sense to build a larger bed.


Below is the list of tools and cuts that I used to create the raised garden bed. As a part of DIY projects I prefer to cut the wood myself. I used my awesome new Kobalt Sliding Compound Miter Saw for all the cuts. You can certainly take advantage of the friendly staff at your local Lowe’s store to assist you with the wood cutting if you prefer.

TIP: I recently learned some great tips from Bob Vila for getting clean cuts on wood. I found #5 to be the most help




Step 1:
Begin by measuring and marking all the pieces of wood. Remember, measure twice and cut once! Proceed to make your cuts and neatly organize the wood by size.


Step 2:
(This step is done twice)
Proceed to building the two side pieces of the raised bed. Gather two pieces of the 4′ 2×6 and two pieces of 15″ 4×4 post. Align the edges on both sides flush with the top of the 2×6 boards. Drill two pilot holes on each end of the boards and into the post. Using the 3″ in screws drill down the first four screws to secure on side. Follow the same step on the other end of the boards. NOTE: The post will extend 4″ down which will be used to anchor down into the ground.


Step 3:
With the two sides piece built you are ready to begin attaching the first set of 8 foot 2×6. For best results secure the first 2×6 using a heavy duty clamp on each side. Once again drill two pilot holes through each end followed by drilling down two screws. Follow the same step with the bottom 2x6x8. NOTE: As with “Step 2”, Step 3 must be performed two times as well for the front and back side.


Step 4:
Once all 2×6 are attached to the main four post measure four feet on the front and back side. Make marks on the inside in preparation for attaching the additional two post.


Step 5:
Using the 11″ cuts of 1×6 attach 2 on each corner. First drill pilot holes onto the side piece then screw them in. This will allow for the front side to be completely flush (image below) and hide the edges from the side board. Do the same for each of the four corners of the bed.


Step 6:
Using the 100″ and 55″ cuts of 2×4 cut 45 degree angles using a miter saw. These will be used as the ledge for the top of the raised bed.


Step 7:
Align the four pieces of 45 degree cut 2×4’s to the top of the bed. Clamps can also be used to tightly secure the edges. Once again drill pilot holes followed by drilling down screws to secure the edges. Use approximately four screws on the 8′ sides and three screws on the 4′ sides. (more can be used if desired)


Step 8: (optional steps going forward)
At this point the garden bed is fully functional and can be used as is. However, if you plan to use it for growing vegetables, you will want to protect your crops from birds and other pest.

Using the 3/4″ PVC cut 4 pieces at 10″ length. Measure halfway from post to post for both front and back side of bed. Then proceed to vertically screw on the 3/4″ PVC. You will have 2 PVC pieces screwed on to each of the bed.


Step 9:
Using the two 10′ pieces of 1/2″ PVC bend them in loops inserting them into the 3/4″ PVC screwed on the inside of the raised bed. With the PVC now in place use your choice of bird netting or mesh blanket to drape over the bed once your soil and plants are in place.


The raised garden bed is now complete. From this point you are ready to fill with soil and begin growing your plants of choice!

I purchased all the tools and materials necessary for this project at my local Lowe’s store. Be sure to drop by and check out the selection of wood and tools you can use for your project. Be sure to share your creation via comments and social media @theoutdoorboys.

Stay tuned for part 2 of this project. I will be decorating the garden bed area as well as discussing soil mixture and plant selection.









Easy To Build DIY Firewood Shed

Build-It-Yourself-DIY-Firewood-ShedAre you looking to build your own simple DIY firewood shed? You’ve come to the right place! In the past year I’ve done a lot of tree trimming in my property. I began splitting the cut wood and stacking them against my house which is generally not a good idea. I used to purchase a lot of firewood for camping or backyard smores. Since I had plenty of good wood for drying, I figured it was time to stack and dry them in a better location.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-01-logoI had been considering the idea of building a simple firewood shed for storing the split wood. One day as my kids were drawing I grabbed a piece of paper and an extra pencil they had and began drawing out a design with dimensions.With a rough estimate of the materials I may have needed I head off to my local home improvement store to begin purchasing supplies. I will admit, I underestimated a few pieces and had to make a couple of trips back. Then again, I normally do that anyhow.

Below is the list of tools and cuts that I used to create the firewood shed. All cuts were done at home using a miter saw but can easily be cut at your local home improvement store.



  • Tape Measure
  • Pencil or Pen
  • Power Drill
  • Drill Bit Set
  • Miter Saw, Circular Saw or handsaw
  • Safety Glasses
  • (14) 1″ x 4″ x 8ft
    • (14) 3ft pieces – 42ft
    • (13) 5ft pieces – 65ft
  • (2) 2″ x 4″ x 8ft Treated – 4 pieces at 4ft
  • (1) 2″ x 4″ x 8ft Treated – 2 pieces at 29″
  • (12) 1/2″ x 4″ x 6ft  —  cut to 68″ each
  • (1) #8 x 1-5/8″ Construction Screws 1lb box
  • (4) 12 Gauge Galvanized Steel Angle

diy-firewood-shed-plans-02-logoStep 1:
Begin building the side walls by using the 4 pieces of treated 2×4 cut at 4ft. Also grab the 2 pieces of 2×4 cut at 29″ for the horizontal attachments at the bottom. Using 2 – 4ft pieces and 1 – 29″ cut attach towards the bottom of the 4ft cuts using the galvanized steel angles.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-03-logoStep 2:
Begin screwing on 7 slats of 1×4 cut at 3 ft to each side. Space them out evenly from top to bottom until you reach the horizontal 2×4.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-04-logoStep 3:
Now that the 2 sides are complete, proceed to attach the 5 ft 1×4’s. I found it easiest to attach the outer pieces first, then continue to screw down the rest. Attach a total of 6 pieces.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-05-logoStep 4:
Begin attaching additional 5 ft pieces of 1×4 for the back. A total of 7 pieces should be screwed evenly to the back.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-06-logoStep 5:
Using a couple pieces of scrap 2×4 screw on the top of the rear 2×4 post to begin creating a pitch for the roof. Use 2 pieces of of 1/2 x 4 cut to 3ft to bolt the angled pitch.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-7-logoStep 6:
Use the 12 pieces of 1/2 x 4 cut at 68″ and begin screwing horizontally from the bottom up of the roof.

diy-firewood-shed-plans-08-logoYou’re all done!

Based on this simple design you can make your own adjustments as needed to create smaller or larger builds. In addition to changing the size you can add more slats on the side for more of an enclosed style shed. This size was perfect for my needs and I have since added a whole lot more wood.

I hope you enjoyed reading about this design. I’d love to see what variations you come up with. Feel free to share pictures and comments below.





Step-By-Step DIY Wood Garage Work Bench


Are you thinking of building your own work bench but don’t know where to start? You’ve come to the right place! Not too long ago I started working on cleaning up my garage. My goal was to neatly organize tons of junk I have as well as build a solid work bench where I could pretty much do anything.

I too didn’t know where to start so I did what comes natural. I surfed the web for some design ideas that would work best for me. I wanted a large surface working area with storage space beneath. Once I found something that made sense to me so I head off to my local home improvement store with a shopping list of supplies. After several hours worth of work, I now have a solid bench that I’m proud to have built with my own two hands.

Are you ready to build your own work bench? Check out the materials list and instructions below.


• 1 – 4’X8’X 23/32” Plywood
• 5 – 2X6 8’
• 2 – 4X4 8’
• 32 – 5/16 Hex Bolts 6”
• 32 – 5/16 Lock Nuts
• 64 – 5/16 Washers
• 1 Box – 1 5/8” Deck Screws

• Tape Measure
• Power Drill with 5/16 bit
• Miter Saw
• Saw stand
• Trigger clamp
• Jig saw
• Hammer
• Level
• ½” Socket
• ½” Wrench


Step 1 – Make your cuts
• Cut the 4×8 plywood in half horizontally to make two 2×8 pieces. (I had this piece cut in store). These will become the top and middle shelve.
• Cut 4 pieces of 4×4 post at 40 inches for the legs. This can be customized in height to your personal preference.
• 2 pieces of 2X6 – 96″ – no cutting required
• Cut 2 pieces of 2X6 – 93″
•Cut 4 pieces of 2X6 – 22 1/2″


Step 2 – Map out hole locations & drill

Use a thin piece of scrap wood to draw the locations where the holes for the bolts will go. This helps keep all the holes you drill uniform. Make a second template for the side holes on the post so they are evenly staggered. Tip: Use a trigger clamp to keep the wood from moving so the holes are even and match up perfectly.


Step 3 – Begin putting the frame together. The front side can easily be done laying on the ground. Once you begin the side pieces, using a trigger clamp will simplify things drastically.


Step 4 – Measure, and cut the edges of the middle shelf. Measure if from the edge of the outside board up to the inside of the 4×4 post.
Note: I originally measured just for the post only and had to make an additional adjustment cut. I didn’t go by “the rule”, which you defintely should… “measure twice, cut once”


Step 5 – Drill down the middle shelf. Make sure you do this BEFORE the table top. To make it easier you CAN remove the front piece of the top frame. Shouldn’t be necessary but makes it easier.

Step 6 – Drill down the table top of the work bench.


Your new work bench is now completely put together. From here you can customize or paint according to your preference. I have seen many things done to benches such as staining, painting and even top coats of epoxy for durability.

Now it’s your turn! Give the DIY work bench a try. I’d love to see what you come up with. Feel free to leave comments with brag post.




Need A Seat For A Child On Your Kayak?


Want to take a child on a single person kayak but don’t have a seat for them? That’s a dilemma I faced when I began kayaking. I have a six year old son that loves fishing with me off my kayak. I had the space on my Hobie Outback and Ascend FS12T kayak but didn’t have a seat for him. I didn’t want to make holes on my yaks in order to setup and extra seat so I came up with a very simple solution to my problem.


I shopped around for different seat options until I came across the perfect solution from Dicks Sporting Goods. I found a canoe seat by GCI that met my needs. It was an inexpensive option and best of all, its portable with no hardware to install. I’m able to add it or remove it from my kayaks as needed.

Ascend FS12T with GCI Canoe Seat

I generally secure the base of the seat on the kayaks bungee cords. The weight of the child will keep it in place as well. The Ascend FS12T I have has plenty of space on the  bow or stern, which my son fits perfectly on. I also use the canoe seat on the stern of my Hobie Outback secured to the bungee cords.

The GCI canoe seat is not the only thing that can work for you. There are many options for seats you can use that include stadium seats as well. Shop around for what works for you.

That was easy right? Now don’t forget safety, make sure your child is wearing a life vest and you’re ready to have fun!

GCI Canoe Seat






DIY Emergency Preparedness Kit – Safety First


Have you ever thought of what being “prepared” means? Being prepared is not a one size fits all plan, however there are basic items that should always be kept handy. Everyone knows disasters strike at the moment we least expect. It is a great idea to keep an emergency preparedness kit handy in your home as well as vehicle or frequently visited location(s). It is an even better idea to have kits made for family members as well.


Thanks to shows like The Walking Dead and Z Nation, the zombie craze has inadvertently  made “prepping” and survival in general a popular thing. We all know zombies are fiction but it exposes a truly important topic. Of course that is emergency preparedness. Emergencies can come in all shapes and sizes and vary from geographical locations. As a resident of beautiful South Florida I have hurricanes, floods and power outages to worry about. Some folks have other things to worry about such as snow storms, earthquakes, tornados and tsunamis to name a few.


The one thing we all have in common is the need to prepare. Having the ability to keep your family and loved ones safe is priceless. The road to preparedness is far simpler than many people imagine. Organizations like FEMA and the Red Cross have published information on their websites on how to prepare for a disaster as well as what to expect after one has occurred. With all the wealth of information available, why wait until its too late?


Since the inception of The Outdoor Boys, I have made outdoor activities a fun thing for my family. We’re often out camping, or hiking, bike riding or cruising on kayaks in the ocean or intercoastal waterways. No matter what we’re doing I try to incorporate teaching my family safety and preparedness. One of the most important skills for the outdoors and general survival is the ability to overcome obstacles and improvise in a sticky situation. That’s where the emergency preparedness pack comes into play. These packs are also known as “Bug-out-bag”, “72 Hour pack” or “get home bag”. The name is not as important as the function.

An emergency pack should contain the general items you will need to withstand an emergency situation lasting up to 3 days. As mentioned before, preparedness is not a one size fits all plan and the kit you plan to pack can be specific to a scenario or demographic location. However, what is important is that your pack contains quality items you can depend on. The last thing you want is to be caught in a situation where you must rely on your gear and they fail you.


In addition to the actual pack something that should not be overlooked is your selection of wardrobe. From top to bottom you must consider what elements you will encounter and prepare accordingly. As seen from this post starting from the bottom up I use high quality Dr. Martens steel toe boots, tactical or cargo pants (rip stop preferred), I keep lightweight t-shirts but always pack a sweatshirt in my pack. I keep a comfortable cap in my bag and use my polarized Under Armour shades for exposure to the sun. I also carry my Motorola MS350R NOAA radio clipped as well as my Olympia RG850 LED flashlight on me for instant light. Steel toe footwear is recommended in case you are traversing terrain full of debris where you can potentially hurt your feet. The Red Cross especially recommends them for areas that are prone to tornadoes, going back to search your destroyed home can have dangerous exposed screws and nails. Practicing safety first is imperative to your overall wellness in an emergency situation. Carrying a high quality back pack is also important for comfort and durability.

I put together the list below to help give you a jump start on preparing your own emergency preparedness kit. The specific items are products that I proudly carry in my emergency kits and stand by their quality. The list is not comprehensive as their are many personal choices that can be made to suit your specific needs. The purpose of this list is to provide a reference point, I’m not an expert on the subject by any means but like to share my experience and what works for me.

1. 5.11 Tactical RUSH12 Backpack
2. Motorola Talkabout MS350R waterproof NOAA two-way radio
3. Olympia RG850 Waterproof LED Flashlight
4. Under Armour – UA Power Polarized Sunglasses
5. Dr. Martens Forge St steel toe boot
6. SafeHands alcohol free sanitizer
7. 5.11 Tactical Downrange Cap
8. Oakley SI Lightweight Gloves
9. Leatherman Surge multi-tool
10. Boltwell B*10 Must Have Kit
11. Hunting Knife
12. Poncho / blanket / sweatshirt
13. Water /water prurification tablets
14. LifeStraw
15. Water Bladder or metal bottle
16. Protein/ energy bars
17. MRE’s or Mayday food bars
18. Utensils
19. portable cooking device
20. First Aid Kit w/ prescription medication (if any)
21. Insect Repellant
22. Tent – tarp – sleeping bag
23. Hand warmers, emergency mylar thermal blanket
24. Fire starters – matches – lighter
25. Toilet paper – paper towel – hand wipes
26. Hand sanitizer – soap – deodorant – toothpaste/brush
27. flash light – head lamp – glowsticks
28. batteries (size depends on devices you carry)
29. 550 paracord – duct tape – sewing kit
30. Mesh bag (multi use)
31. Bandana (multi use)
32. cell phone
33. solar and crank NOAA radio w/ charger
34. notepad – sharpie
35. Whistle
36. Mirror
37. Compass
38. Cash – in small denominations (you never know)















Disclosure: Some of products listed were provided to theoutdoorboys to facilitate the review. All opinions and comments stated are my own. All photos posted are taken by and property of The Outdoor Boys.





Rod Holders Mounted On Cooler

Now that I have a kayak I’ve been looking for ways to carry extra rods as well as storage for caught fish. I wanted something that could be portable for times where I want to bring my son with me for a ride instead of ocean fishing. I decided to buy a 25Qt Marine Igloo cooler and bolt a Berkley 3 rod holder to the front of it. Listed below are the step by step instructions on how I attached the rod holder to the cooler.
Items Needed:
Cooler of choice
Rod holder
Stainless steel Nuts and bolts (size depends on thickness of insulation in cooler)
Stainless steel washers
Power drill with drill bit
Marine polyurethane sealant
Fine tip marker or pen
Bolt cutter
Metal filer or sander


1. Place the rod holder directly on top of the cooler where you want to mount. Draw dots using a marker to mark the area where you will drill holes.

2. Once the hole marks have been made grab your drill and carefully drill holes equal the diameter of the bolt you will use.

3. Once all the appropriate holes have been made proceed to mount the rod holder by inserting the bolts through the premade holes on the holder and into the cooler.

4. Once all bolts have been inserted proceed to add a washer followed by the nut. Tighten snug but do not over pressure or the cooler will begin to dent.
5. Once the nuts and bolts have been securely fastened use the bolt cutter to cut as close to the nut as you can.

6. File down the jagged edges of the bolt with a filer or stone sander.

7. Now that the jagged edges have been removed you can proceed to generously apply the marine polyurethane sealer to fully coat the perimeter of the nuts and bolts.

8. Let the cooler sit for 2-3 days in a cool dry area to completely cure. Then enjoy your newly rigged fishing cooler.


Raised Garden Bed

Raised Garden Bed – 4×4

Item list purchased from Home Depot:

Building Instuctions:

  • Gather 12 precut pieces of 2×4 at 4 feet each. You will use 3 pieces of 2×4 for each side of the bed.
  • With a deck clamp secure the 3 pieces of 2×4 then screw a 12 inch cut of 2×2 on top side of the 2×4 and not against the edge.
  • 1
  • Follow step 2 again to build another side with the 2×2 post.
  • Once the 2 sides with 2×2 post built, stand them up and clamp lay 3 additional pieced of 2×4 clamped together. Carefully drill 2 screws on each end of the 2×4 to the post.
  • 2
  • Flip the 3 attached pieces and follow step 4 again to attach the 4th side.
  • 3
  • With all 4 sides complete the next step is building the top ledge of the flower bed. For this step measure an additional 2 inches from the horizontal and vertical side to create an overhang. Once the measurements taken cut the additional 2×4’s as needed for size (mine were 51 inches and 53 inches).
  • After the 2×4’s are cut for the top ledge use a Miter Saw to make 45 degree cuts to use to connect the border.
  • 4
    • After the cuts are made, position them at the top gently and begin to align as desired before screwing them in.
    • Pre-drill 3 holes on each of the top ledges spread out even. Once pre-drilled, fasten the ledge with screws onto the base.
    • 5
    • Finalize the bed by using a wood armor to  give a clear waterproof protection to the bed. *** Additional plastic layer or heavy duty bags can be used to protect the wood in the inside from water and dirt.
    • 6
    • 7
    • With the raised bed complete find the desired location in your yard where you will want to place the bed. Use a shovel to cut out grass if not in a clean area and level out the dirt before placing the bed. For added protection against weeds use a layer of landscape fabric first then lay the bed on top. Cut out an additional 1 foot perimeter if you wish to add decorative stones. In this case, Red Lava decorative stones by Vigoro were used for added appeal.
    • 8
    • Fill the raised bed with the soil of your choice that will best suit the type of flowers or vegetables you wish to plant.

Remington 700 Stock – Camo Spray Paint Design

I love my Remington 700 rifle but never really liked the original camo pattern the stock had. I decided I wanted to try out a custom pattern so I went down to my local Wal-Mart and purchased several cans of Rust-Oleum Ultra Flat Camouflage spray paint. Creating the finished product was not extremely difficult but it did take about 5 days to complete. If you want to give a custom spray job a try and have the time and patience…. here’s how to do it.

Items needed:
Rifle stock (or item you desire to paint)
Painters tape
Ultra flat or Flat spray paint (your color combination choice)
Xacto knife
Wax paper
Pen (or pencil)
Cutting mat (to protect table/desk surface)

1. First step after removing the stock is to prep the surface by cleaning it well with a degreaser to ensure the paint sticks well. Dry the stock and make sure it is dry.

2. Cut out a large piece of wax paper to about 12 x 12 inches. Then use the painters tape to cover both sides of the paper.

3. Once the wax paper is covered completely with tape begin drawing out random shape to form your camo patterns.

4. Place the patterns over a safe cutting surface. Using an Xacto knife, carefully begin to cut out the shape patterns you previously drew.


5. Now its time for painting. Hang the stock by a string in a well ventilated are and begin coating the entire surface with your base coat of paint which should go in order from the lightest to the darkest color.

6. Once base coat is dry begin peeling off the tape patterns you cut from step 3 and randomly place on the stock. View photos below for a reference.

7. Allow at least several hours to dry before spraying on the next color. I let each color dry 24 hours before applying the next coat.


8. Continue to layer the paint on the stock by repeating step 5 and 6 for each additional color you spray.


9. Once you’ve sprayed all the layers of colors proceed to carefully remove each layer of painters tape to reveal the pattern hidden below. The second to last line of photos below show the stock right after removing the tape.

10. If you’re happy with the outcome….Enjoy! If not, try step 11.

11. In my case, I decided the pattern still needed more blending so I used steel wool to lightly remove any shine on the paint. I also used very fine coat of paint to blend the colors better.


Ceiling Mounted Fishing Rod Holder

This one is for guys (or gals) that need a safe place to store their valuable fishing poles. I found myself building up my collection and didn’t want to ruin my equipment by piling them up in a corner. I searched for ceiling mounted systems and either didn’t find one I liked or they were too pricey. I decided to design my own and build it from scratch using wood. I spent about an average of $12 for the wood and clear coat spray paint because I already had the tools I needed. Below is the list of items you will need to get started.
Items needed:
2 pieces of 42″ by 4″ wood (your wood choice)
A 2 inch fostner bit
Power Drill
Jig saw with Curved/Wood/Plastic blade
C clamps to hold down wood
sander/sand paper
Clear coat spray paint (or stain of your choice)
small L-bracket (or mounting hardware of your choice)


1. Draw out the dimensions you want to build. In my case I cut a 42 inch piece of wood to accommodate 10 poles. Using this measurement you will draw a dot 3 inches from the edge, then measure and mark a dot every 4 inches to indicate the center of each 2 inch cut. If you wish to make a larger rack add 3 inches in length of wood per extra hole you want.


2. Mark 1 of the pieces of wood with a sharpie to indicate the center of each hole ( refer to collage below photo 1&2).

3. Once the wood has been marked you can proceed to clamp together. This makes it easier to make matching cuts on both pieces of wood to ensure they align properly.

4. Begin cutting holes through both clamped pieces of wood.

5. When all circles are complete you can draw the lines you will cut for the rod tip end (Picture #02). Make sure to ONLY cut one of the wood pieces and not both.


6. Using the jig saw with the blade for curves begin cutting out the lines (Picture #03).


7. At this point use the jig saw to cut round edges on the top side of both racks (Picture #02).This can be done before step 6 if desired. Can also be skipped if you prefer squared edges.


8. Once all lines have been cut you can proceed to use the sander to smooth of both sides of each piece of wood to prep it for the clear coat (or stain).


9. Once both racks are sanded and painted to desired look attach L-brackets on the sides of each rack in line with the straight edges.

10. Mount to desired location on ceiling and enjoy your custom made ceiling rod rack.